-------------------------------------------TURKISH SEA
FOOD & FISH DISHES
Four
seas (the Black Sea, Marmara Sea, Aegean and the Mediterranean) surround
the Turkish landscape and residents of the coastal cities are experts
in preparing fish. However, the best of the day's catch is immediately
transported to Ankara, where some of the finest fish restaurants are
located. Winter is the premium season for fish, as many species migrate
from the Black Sea to warmer waters and reach their mature sizes.
Every month
offers a new delicacy of fish at its prime, served along with certain
complimenting vegetables. For example, the best Bonito is eaten with
arugula and red onions, Blue Fish with lettuce, Turbot with cos lettuce.
Large Bonito may be poached with celery root. Mackerel is stuffed with
chopped onions before grilling, while summer fish, which are
younger
and drier, are poached with tomatoes and green peppers, or fried. Bay
leaves always accompany both poached and grilled fish.
Grilling fish
over charcoal, where the fish juices hit the embers and envelope the
fish with the smoke, is perhaps the most delicious way of eating it,
as it brings out the delicate flavours. This is also why the grilled
fish and bread sold by vendors on their boats are so tasty. "Hamsi"
is the prince of all fish known to Turks: the Black Sea people know
forty one ways of making hamsi including hamsi borek, hamsi pilaf and
hamsi dessert! Another common seafood are deep fried mussels, poached,
or as a mussel dolma with rice and mussel pilaf.
Along the
Aegean, octopus and calamary are added to the meze spread. The best
places for fish are in the fish restaurants and taverns. Not all taverns
are fish restaurants, but most fish restaurants are taverns and these
are usually found in the harbours overlooking the sea. The Bosphorus is famous for its fishermen' taverns, large and small from Rumeli Kavagi
to Kumkapi. The modest ones are small with wooden tables and rickety
wooden chairs, nevertheless they offer delicious grilled fish.
Then
there are the elaborate, fashionable ones in Tarabya and Bebek. These fish restaurants always have an open-air section taking up space right
by the sea; the waiters run back and forth between the kitchen, perhaps
located within the restaurant across the street and the tables on the
seaside.
After being
seated, it is customary to visit the kitchen or the display to pick
your fish and discuss the way you want it to be prepared. The price
of the fish is also disclosed at this time. Then you swing by the meze
display and order the ones you want. So the evening begins, sipping
raki in between sampling of meze, watching the sunset and slowly setting
the pace for conversation that will continue hours into the right. Drinking
is never a hurried, loud, boisterous or a lonely affair. It is a communal,
gently festive and cultured way of entertainment.