OTTOMAN
CUISINE & COOKING
The importance of
culinary art for the Ottoman Sultans is evident to every visitor of
Topkapi Palace. The huge kitchens were housed in several buildings under
ten domes. By the 17th century, some thirteen hundred kitchen staff
were housed in the Palace. Hundreds of cooks, specializing in different
categories of dishes such as soups, pilafs (rice), kebabs, vegetables,
fish, breads, pastries, candy and helva , syrup and jams and beverages,
fed as many as ten thousand people a day and, in addition, sent trays
of food to others in the city as a royal favour.
The importance of food is also evident in the
structure of the Ottoman military elite, the Janissaries. The commanders
of the main divisions were known as the Soupmen, other high ranking
officers were the Chief Cook, Scullion, Baker and Pancake Maker, though
their function had little to do with these titles. The huge cauldron
used to make pilaf had a special symbolic significance for the Janissaries,
as the central focus of each division.
The kitchen was also the center of politics,
for whenever the Janissaries demanded a change in the Sultan's Cabinet,
or the head of a grand vizier, they would overturn their pilaf cauldron."
Overturning the cauldron", is an expression still used today to indicate
a rebellion in the ranks.
It was in this environment that hundreds
of the Sultan's chefs, who dedicated their lives to their profession,
developed and perfected the dishes of the Turkish Cuisine, which was
then adopted by the kitchens of the provinces ranging from the Balkans
to Southern Russia and reaching North Africa. Istanbul was the capital
of the world and had all the prestige, so that its ways were imitated.
At the same time, it was supported by an enormous organization and infrastructure
which enabled all the treasures of the world to flow into it.
The provinces of the vast Empire were integrated
by a system of trade routes with refreshing caravanserais for the weary
merchants and security forces. The Spice Road, the most important factor
in culinary history, was under the full control of the Sultan. Only
the best ingredients were allowed to be traded under the strict standards
established by the courts.
Guilds played an important role in development
and sustenance of the Cuisine. These included
hunters, fisherman ,cooks, kebab cooks, bakers, butchers, cheese makers
and yogurt merchants, pastry chefs, pickle makers and sausage merchants.
All of the principal trades were believed to be sacred and each guild
traced its patronage to the Prophets and Saints. The guilds prevailed
in pricing and quality control. They displayed their products and talents
in spectacular floats driven through Istanbul streets during special
occasions, such as the circumcision festivities for the Crown Prince
or religious holidays.
Following the example of the Palace, all
of the grand Ottoman houses boasted elaborate kitchens and competed
in preparing feasts for each other as well as the general public. In
fact, in each neighborhood, at least one household would open its doors
to anyone who happened to stop by for dinner during the holy month of
Ramadan, or during the other festive occasions. This is how the traditional
Cuisine evolved and spread, even to the most modest corners of the country.